Didn't you ask this question earlier? Look, this is not going to be a shade tree answer off the internet fix. You are dumping raw fuel into the exhaust and most likely it has clogged your catalytic converter. But by just replacing the converter most likely it will happen again. I mean a shop with diagnostic equipment can diagnose the problem for an hours labor. I think that is your best bet instead of pulling your hair out and not accomplishing ANYTHING.Pipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
replace the catPipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
it would help to know the model of car, but a vacuum leak Will cause it, spray carb cleaner around the intake to find the leakPipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer.Pipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
yoiu may have caused an air pocket in the cooling system.... but a glowing red exhaust most likely is a plugged exhauestPipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
What type of car and what size engine? Converter could be clogged but if it was the engine wouldn't run very long and not very well. If the mixture is off, the unburnt fuel will be burning in the exhaust causing it to glow. Is the engine skipping? How do the plugs look? If they are black, rich, if they are very white running lean.Pipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
Have you tried looping your heater core hose and flushing your engine ? If you have a plug somewhere, then not surprising.
You haven't said if your engine otherwise runs fine. Timing chains can jump on start up. This would affect both heads/exhaust.
Another possibility is lifters are sticking. Do you have solid or hydraulic lifters ? Have you ran the engine with your valve cover off and watched to make sure everything seems to be working fine on top ? Getting oil, lifters/rockers working normal,etc.Pipe to manifold begins to glow and then the manifold, why?
Hi!
Okay, my answers are deceptively simple, but that's the best place to start... Take off the catalytic converter, run it straight pipe, and assign two other people to help you inspect the entire line. you want to diagnose *where* the heat up starts out. Pull or swap out the parts in a systematic order as you go down the line, and see how long, or how mush stress, the engine runs before the line goes cherry. If the heat source begins in the manifold, then your repair job is to blame. If it's down the line, you're looking at a plugged line or converter. Catalytic converters can be cleaned out, but you'd have to know what you are doing to a tee, or be willing to pay for someone who does, as a damaged converter is exponentially more dangerous than a blown head. Another contender is a dud sensor, or emissions control system. Are you sure the head you replaced is a sound one? Sometimes duds come in %26quot;new%26quot; or %26quot;reconditioned%26quot; packages. Don't know if you are talking about fuel injection or a carborator system. The fuel injection cleaners that are sold over the counter are crap that does more harm than good. Ask a reputable auto shop or mechanic about who they buy their f.i. cleaners from. A blown temp gage is a bad sign, but more symptom than cause in a heat up that does not involve your coolant system. Speaking of which, I hope you are running half antifreeze and half water in the radiator, and please check to be sure... A pure water or pure antifreeze fill *will* blow the plugs on your engine block, while too little or no water/coolant will over-heat and lock up your engine. In closing, two rare but plausible sources of grief are contaminants introduced into the pistons, arms, or manifold during repairs. Be especially wary of something as simple as water in this case, as this can cause all kinds of hell , including engine over-heat or seizing. There's always some dummy who poured the wrong fluids in the wrong tubes. I've got a buddy who chronically pours engine oil in either the power steering box, the master cylinder, or a more common goof, the transmission tube. Engines hate that, and I'd like to seize his driver's license just to protect the general public from him. All of these scenarios cause engines to cherry, hope you can find the fault inexpensively.
